The shine of a cosmetic might seem like a purely aesthetic matter.
A tiny sparkle appears on the skin, and we probably don't think much more about it.
We, however, usually do.
After so many years of formulating, you get used to looking a little beyond the final result and asking yourself where a texture, a color, or, as in this case, that golden reflection comes from.
Because not all luminous finishes are achieved in the same way.
What are microplastics in cosmetics?
When we talk about microplastics, we generally refer to small fragments of plastic. The European Commission typically uses a size of less than 5 millimeters as a reference.
In the cosmetic sector, certain synthetic polymers have been used for various functions and, in some cases, to create visual finishes such as shimmer or glitter.
Yes, the same glitter we used in crafts when we were little.
The problem begins when these tiny particles leave the skin surface. When we shower or remove a cosmetic, they can enter the water and end up dispersing into the environment.
The European Commission describes microplastics as persistent, highly mobile, and difficult to remove from nature. Once released, they tend to accumulate in the environment.
And, due to their size, many times we don't even see them.
What happens to microplastics in nature?
Just because we stop seeing something doesn't mean it has disappeared.
Microplastics can remain in water and soil and move between different ecosystems. Their small size facilitates contact and ingestion by living organisms, and their presence has been documented throughout food chains.
The United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) reports toxic and mechanical effects related to their ingestion by different animals. Described effects include reduced food intake, behavioral changes, and certain biological and genetic alterations.
Here it is worth making a small clarification: not all microplastics are the same, and not all exposures produce the same consequences. Size, shape, composition, and exposure time also matter.
But their ability to remain in nature for long periods helps us understand why there is so much concern about them.
Microplastics in the human body: what do we really know?
We know that we are exposed to microplastics through the air, water, and food.
From this point on, we prefer to be cautious.
The European Environment Agency (EEA) indicates that, although there is a lot of information about their presence in our environment, we still know little about their specific effects on human health.
That doesn't mean they are not being studied.
A systematic review published in Environmental Science & Technology in 2024 concluded that exposure to microplastics is suspected of harming reproductive, digestive, and respiratory health.
The research also analyzes mechanisms related to inflammation and oxidative stress.
Oxidative stress is part of our daily lives as aestheticians and formulators. It occurs when there is an imbalance between the formation of oxidizing species and the body's ability to neutralize them, and we know that it can participate in cell damage processes.
But it's one thing to understand a biological mechanism and another to claim that the presence of microplastics directly causes a specific disease.
Science is still trying to understand what happens depending on the dose, particle size, route of entry into the body, and exposure time.
That's why, when there is a suitable alternative, it seems sensible to reduce their intentional incorporation.
Europe has already begun to limit intentionally added microplastics
This concern has also reached regulation.
In October 2023, the REACH restriction on synthetic polymer microparticles intentionally added to products came into force in the European Union. The measure affects various sectors, including cosmetics, and provides for different adaptation periods depending on their use.
This does not mean that every synthetic polymer is automatically a microplastic, nor that every petrochemical-derived ingredient falls within this definition.
The regulation establishes specific criteria, and we believe it is important to make this distinction.
In formulation, oversimplifying almost never helps (although sometimes we would love for everything to be a little simpler).
A way of looking at raw materials that didn't just start yesterday
Nasei was born almost two decades ago, when talking about organic cosmetics, conscious formulation, or environmental impact was much less common than it is now.
For us, looking towards nature was never a trend, but the starting point.
Over the years we have learned a lot—and continue to do so—.
We have also understood that respecting nature is not about seeking a perfection that probably doesn't exist, but about reviewing, questioning, and choosing better when we have the possibility to do so.
That's why we ask ourselves these questions even with something as seemingly simple as the shine of an oil.
What are the golden particles in an illuminating oil?
When observing a body oil with small golden sparkles, it's quite easy to think of glitter.
But it isn't always.
Luminosity can also come from minerals capable of reflecting light. One of the best known for its use in formulation is mica.
What is mica and why does it shine?
Mica is the name given to a family of silicate minerals naturally present in different rocks.
Its structure is organized in extremely thin layers, almost like small superimposed sheets. This arrangement allows it to reflect light on its surface and create that characteristic shimmer.
Perhaps you have ever found a rock with small silver or golden sparkles and moved it under the light to see it shine (we have done it more than once).
It's very possible you were seeing mica.
In formulation, this ability to interact with light allows for effects ranging from very subtle reflections to more radiant finishes.
And here an important difference appears: at first glance we may perceive a similar sparkle, but its origin can be completely different.
Mineral vs. plastic
When we developed our gardenia and lime illuminating body oil, we were looking for a very specific golden reflection.
We wanted it to visually blend with the skin, to appear especially when light hit it, and not to leave that glittery sensation.
That's why we chose a natural and geological mica, a mineral and non-nano raw material that allows us to provide that golden halo without resorting to plastic particles or microplastics.
We could have simply been content with the oil making the skin beautiful.
And yes, we love how it catches the light.
But after so many years of formulating, you learn that the final result is only one part of the development. What you choose, why you use it, and what happens afterward, when that cosmetic is no longer on the skin's surface, also matters.
These are decisions that may never be noticed when opening a bottle, but they have been part of our way of formulating since we began.
For us, caring for the skin and reducing our environmental impact belong to the same understanding of cosmetics.
Text and photography: Lorena Aviñón
Model: Helena Cornet
Sources consulted
European Commission · Microplastics
European Commission · REACH restriction on intentionally added microplastics
European Environment Agency · Impacts of microplastics on health
Environmental Science & Technology · Effects of Microplastic Exposure on Human Health